Cruising the BVI: Day 3 - To Virgin Gorda

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In the previous installment of the series of blog posts "Cruising the BVI: Day 2 - To Marina Cay" we described our second day in the BVI.  We left Norman Island, stopped at Peter Island and moored at Marina Cay.

Tuesday March 1, 2011 - We awoke to a beautiful blue sky and winds much less blustery than Monday.

The previous night was much better than at the Bight.  We were in a better protected area and the swing during the night was much less.  Plus we were up to version 2 of our mooring ball technique.  At the Bight we had attached the mooring ball with one loop of dock line and led it to one side of the bow.  So the pull from the mooring ball was just to the port side of the bow.  Here we had removed the anchor and fed the dock line loop through the anchor roller at the tip of the bow.  Thus the pull was directly from the mid-line of the hull.

Jim noticed the water from the sink spigot was spitting a little.  The concern was running out of water.  In addition we we running low on ice in the cooler/refrigerator and few other supplies.  So we decided to motor over to the fuel dock so we could top off the water and the ladies could run in for supplies.  '8 is Enough' headed towards the Baths on Virgin Gorda.

The space at the fuel dock was limited so we had to circle while waiting for room.  It took a while but eventually we were able to get in.  Jim and I tended to the water and ice.  The ladies went for supplies. They came back with souvenirs, in addition to the supplies.

Day 3 RouteWe motored out past the shoals to the north of Marina Cay, then set sail.  It was beam reach from there to The Baths on Virgin Gorda.  The winds had moderated from the previous day so even though there were some swells it was an easy and smooth trip.

Our charter included the necessary permit to visit the National Park and the Baths.  The only problem is the mooring balls can only be used for 90 minutes per day and to see it all would take much longer.

From about a mile out we scanned the mooring area hoping to find "8 is Enough" but could not find them.  We called them on the VHF to find they could not find a mooring ball so were heading directly for Bitter End.  We decided to give it a try anyway and were lucky to find someone leaving as we arrived.  We grabbed the mooring ball and shut down.  We then called "8 is Enough", advised them of our situation and offered to raft-up.  Unfortunately by this time they were set on their course and did not want to turn around.

This time Dorothy decided to remain aboard while Jim, Liz and I headed towards the dinghy mooring.  I decided to snorkel while Liz and Jim explored the beach.  I made the wrong choice, not the last of the day.  The snorkeling was disappointing but I understand the Baths themselves from the beach was spectacular.   Once we returned to the mother-ship, we grabbed a bite to eat and departed.  Our 90 minutes had expired.

Once clear of the mooring balls, we again raised sail.  This time we were close hauled and pounding into the growing swells.  Once we came abeam of Spanish Town, we decided to lower sail and motor the rest of the way.

North end of Virgin Gorda

As we proceeded north around around Mountain Point, I could see the pass between Mosquito Island and Anguilla point.  Our destination was the Bitter End Yacht Club, number 24 on the map above.  I had it in my mind that the correct way to proceed is to go around Mosquito Island to enter the North Sound from the north but I had not really studied the situation.  I looked at the (lame) chart we were given.  I checked out the GPS charts also.  I should have read the cruising guide entry.  It looked like there was a nice passage from the east although it was a little narrow.  If I just split the gap, and hug Anguilla point there should be plenty of water.  I saw a number of boats ahead doing this.  And it was beautiful.  So in I went.

About half way in it starts to get shallow.  I'm watching the depth gauge.  30, 20, 15....  I throttle back.  A large catamaran speeds past our starboard side and I hear "Be careful!  It's very shallow!".  Uh oh...  I throttle back more and follow their course.  A minute or so later, the depth gauge reads 5 and I feel us mush into the bottom.  I spin us to port, throttle up and after a few agonizing seconds we're off.

Now Jim is on the bow, attempting to judge the upcoming depth visually and directing me.  We resume our course and a few minutes later, we mush into the bottom again!  At least it's soft here.  I again spin us left and we again manage to get off.  Then we get lucky.  An even larger cat passes us, this time on the port side and yells, "Follow me!".  He clearly knows what he is doing and after a few minutes we are around the point and beyond the shallows.

Going in that way was stupid.  I had gotten too relaxed and comfortable even though we did not have good charts.  I could have ruined the entire trip if I hit something solid at speed.  It was an embarrassing case of bad judgement.

Lesson 3:  Bring your own detailed charts.

Lesson 6:  Study the cruising guide for all areas on your intended route.

By then we had the crusing guide out and could see exactly where the Bitter End Yacht Club was located.  We cruised on over and found a mooring ball just as '8 is Enough' came up behind us.  There was a huge field of mooring balls and vessels attached to them of all sizes.  Clearly this is a prime destination in the BVI.

Liz and Jim took the dinghy in to check out the beach and club.  Dorothy and I decided to stay aboard and relax.  Later we met the entire crew of both boats for dinner at the Yacht Club pub.

Summary

We had a great time at the Baths and made our way up the west side of Virgin Gorda.  The weather was terrific again.  Despite the best efforts of the skipper we made it successfully to the Bitter End and finished off this leg of the trip with a great dinner and company.

Next up: Anegada.

Glenn